Córdoba: the city that was once the largest in Europe

In the 900s Córdoba was the largest city in Europe. Around half a million people, street lighting, running water and a library holding hundreds of thousands of books, at a time when Paris was a town of mud. Then it all disappeared. That story is what makes Córdoba worth a day.

1. The history first: why Córdoba?

In the year 756 a young prince arrived from Damascus, fleeing for his life. His family had been wiped out by the Abbasids. His name was Abd al-Rahman, and he founded an emirate in Al-Andalus independent of the caliphate in the east.

For two hundred years Córdoba grew into the intellectual centre of the West. Averroes worked here, commenting on Aristotle and shaping European philosophy for centuries through Latin translations. Maimonides, the most important Jewish thinker of the Middle Ages, lived here.

In 1236 Ferdinand III took the city. By then the caliphate had already collapsed in civil war and Córdoba was a shadow of itself. The city never grew large again — which is why so much survives.

2. The Mezquita-Cathedral

856 columns under horseshoe arches, painted in alternating red and white stone, in rows that run further than the eye can follow. Built as a mosque from 785, extended three times, and in the 1500s given a Renaissance cathedral built straight into the middle of it.

When Charles V saw the result, he is said to have remarked that they had destroyed something unique to build something you find everywhere. But it was precisely the cathedral that saved the building from being lost altogether.

Practical note: free entry between 08:30 and 09:30 on weekdays, but the cathedral is in use then and you cannot walk around freely. Pay and come early instead.

3. The Judería — the Jewish quarter

A web of white streets just north of the Mezquita, with the small synagogue from 1315 — one of only three surviving from medieval Spain.

Calleja de las Flores is the most photographed street: so narrow you can stretch out your arms and touch both walls, with the Mezquita tower at the end. Come before ten if you want it to yourself.

4. The Roman bridge

Built in the first century BC across the Guadalquivir, and in use for two thousand years. From the bridge you see the Mezquita side-on, and it is the best view of the city. Walk across to the Calahorra tower on the far bank.

5. Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

The fortress where Isabella and Ferdinand held court, and where Columbus was first granted an audience in 1486. The gardens with their long pools and orange trees are finer than the building.

6. The patios

Córdoba is known for its interior courtyards, covered in potted plants from floor to roof. In May a competition is held where private homes open their patios to the public, and the whole city smells of flowers.

Outside May, the Palacio de Viana is the place to go — twelve patios in one building.

7. Salmorejo, not gazpacho

Córdoba’s own cold soup: tomato, bread, olive oil and garlic, thicker and milder than gazpacho, topped with chopped egg and ham. Order it, and order flamenquín afterwards.

«Nowhere else in Europe do a mosque and a cathedral stand inside the same building, without one having torn down the other.»

Getting there on your own

Córdoba is the easiest day trip from Seville. The AVE high-speed train leaves from Santa Justa and takes forty-five minutes. There are several departures an hour morning and afternoon, and you can buy tickets at renfe.com or from a machine at the station.

From Córdoba station it is a twenty-minute walk to the Mezquita, or a short ride on bus 3. Once you are in the old town the city is small enough to walk everywhere.

The coach takes 1 hour 45 minutes and costs less, but the train gives you so much more of the day that it is rarely worth it. By car it is an hour and a half on the A-4.

Your Mezquita ticket

Buy at mezquita-catedraldecordoba.es. Opening hours are 10:00 to 19:00 Monday to Saturday, shorter on Sunday. In summer it closes in the middle of the day, so check before you travel.

There is free entry between 08:30 and 09:30 on weekdays, but mass is being held, you cannot walk around freely, and the queue is long. Buy a ticket and arrive just after opening instead — then you have the hall of columns almost to yourself.

What to expect of Córdoba

Córdoba is smaller than Seville and quieter. The old town is compact, and you walk from the Mezquita to everything else in minutes. That makes the city good for a day trip — you waste no time on transport.

In summer it is brutally hot. Córdoba is the hottest city in Spain, and over forty degrees is normal in July and August. The city empties between two and six, and you should do as the locals do and stay indoors.

The different quarters

• Judería — the Jewish quarter around the Mezquita, white streets and the synagogue. Where most people go.
• San Basilio — just to the west, known for its patios. Fewer visitors, and where the patio competition has the most entries.
• Plaza de la Corredera — a square arcaded plaza, the only one of its kind in Andalucía. Market on Saturdays.
• The centre around Tendillas — where the city’s own people shop and eat, without tourists.
• Medina Azahara — the ruins of the caliphal city eight kilometres out. A half day of its own, but the most important archaeological site in Andalucía.

Food and markets

Mercado Victoria is the city’s food hall, in an iron structure from 1877 next to the old town. It is more an eating place than a trading market, but handy for lunch when there are many things you want to taste.

What you should eat in Córdoba is salmorejo, the cold soup of tomato, bread, olive oil and garlic, thicker and milder than gazpacho. Then flamenquín, a roll of pork and ham, breaded and fried. Rabo de toro, oxtail stew, is the city’s winter dish. And berenjenas fritas, fried aubergine with cane honey.

The wine is called Montilla-Moriles and is made in the same style as sherry, but without added spirit. Order a fino and you get something dry and nutty.

Mistakes people make

• Coming in July or August. Over forty degrees and the streets empty. April, May and October are the good months.
• Using the free hour at the Mezquita. Mass is under way, you cannot walk around, and the queue takes the time you saved.
• Seeing only the Mezquita. The Judería, the Roman bridge and the Alcázar are all within a forty-five minute walk, and each takes an hour.
• Travelling in May without booking. The patio festival fills the city, and everything has to be booked well ahead.
• Taking the coach to save money. You lose two hours of the day. The train costs more and gives you the city.

Frequently asked questions